For Suman Jalaf, London-based brow expert and founder of Brows by Suman, eyebrows should never be underestimated.

Not only do they frame your face and influence all your other features, but they're expressive, too – an expression of a woman's spirit, and her essence. We sat down with Suman to learn more about how all of us can achieve our own personal brow perfection.


How should we groom our brows?

First, I'd recommend using a brow spoolie, which is a brush with bristles designed for brow combing. It looks a bit like a mascara brush. Whether your eyebrow hair is fine or thick, everyone can benefit from using a spoolie. Use upward strokes to brush the hair up towards your hairline. Then you can trim any longer, straggly hairs for a neater look.

How do you determine the best eyebrow shape for your face?

You need to first determine what I call your 'Golden Ratio', using a technique called brow mapping. This will ensure the shape and size will be in perfect proportion to your face. Naturally, everyone's brow map and ratios are different, because everyone's face is different – which is why this technique is so effective.

How does brow-mapping work?

Take a brow pencil and hold it pointing upwards towards your forehead. Rest the length of the pencil against the edge of your nostril and then visually follow that line upwards. Make a small pencil mark just above your brow, in line with the nostril edge. Then, leave the pencil barrel against the nostril and move the upper tip in line with the centre of your eyeball. This determines the position of the highest point of the arch, and you can make a mark here. Finally, move the pencil so it's in line with your outer eye. This will show you where to mark the end of your brow.

So, we've mapped our brows. What are the next steps?

We then need to fill in the gaps between the points using a brow pencil. Place your free hand above the eyebrow and gently stretch the skin upwards. Follow your three points, from the centre of your face towards the tail – and work the pencil through until you've achieved the desired look. Finish off with brow gel to lock it in. Using brow gel is the same principle as using hairspray after a blow-dry; it holds and tames.

Can we tweeze our own brows at this point?

Once you've mapped your brows, you can tweeze any odd hairs that you see outside this shape. But anything more than a little pluck or trim should be left to a professional.


How often should brows be maintained?

The ideal time between eyebrow maintenance sessions is between four and six weeks. Like all hair, brow hair goes through growth cycles. I recommend fully growing your brows out and then going to a salon so that it's all at the same stage of growth.

Do you follow eyebrow trends?

Thankfully, there are currently no trends for thin eyebrows! It's all about keeping them thick, and I'm often asked how to grow thicker brows. I'm glad because I think more natural, fuller brows look healthier and more beautiful.

What are your tips for creating a thicker, fuller-looking brow?

You can try for regrowth where hair was damaged, but you can't grow hair where you never had it, so serums in these areas won't help. In terms of make-up, brush in clear brow gel with upward strokes to volumise your brows. Colour is important too – a tinted brow mascara can also give them a thicker look. If you have fair hair, have brows professionally tinted a half-shade darker. This tints even the finest hairs, which may naturally be invisible, creating a fuller-looking brow.

Any other tips?

Clean your brushes and cleanse your brows to avoid irritation as part of a regular eyebrow care routine. Also, unkempt is better than overplucked. Shaping is always best left to a professional, but if you can't see one, leave them alone with no more than a little tweak. I'm seeing better brows since the pandemic as people have been leaving their brows alone!


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